Manco Dingo Go Kart

WELCOME TO .... gokartsupply.com

We Accept

Trouble Shooting Guide

For American Go Karts and Mini Bikes


This reference is designed to help service technicians find and eliminate problems associated with fun karts and mini bikes. It's not meant to be used as a service manual. To successfully use this guide: first, identify the major problem with the unit in question. Second, locate the most appropriate section below. Third, find the major problem in the section and check all possible causes listed. Possible causes are listed in order of probability; the most likely causes are listed first.

WARNING: Assembly, maintenance, and/or repair of the kart or mini bike should only be performed by persons of sufficient mechanical skill, experience, and judgement, so that no unsafe conditions or modifications are made.

GASOLINE ENGINES

Engine Will Not Start

Check gas and oil
Kill switch set to "off"
Choke improperly set
Engine flooded
Spark plug wire not connected
Clogged or wet air filter: The air filter functions as the lungs of the engine, if it is wet or clogged with dirt the engine is unable to "breathe" and may be difficult or impossible to start. Check your filter on a regular basis, more often if you ride in dusty conditions. Clean air filters also prevent the engine from ingesting dirt and sand that damage internal working parts.
Throttle cable is grounding to engine stop terminal
Faulty start switch or battery: electric start units
Stale Fuel: Gasoline in a vented fuel tank can go stale within 60 days. Stale gas smells like varnish and leaves "gummy" deposits that clog the tiny jets of the carburetor. If the engine has been sitting up with stale gasoline in the fuel tank the carburetor may require a soaking in carburetor cleaner to remove these deposits. Remove all the rubber pieces including the throttle shaft seal (o-ring) before soaking. After the carburetor is free of all bad gas deposits it should be reinstalled with new gaskets in place. Make sure your fuel tank is clean and free of stale gas as well.

Will Not Stay Running

Check gas and oil: If the engine has water in the gasoline, it will start, run for a few seconds, then as soon as the water hits the carburetor the engine will die. You can look in the bottom of the gas tank and see water "beading" around if it's present. If the gas tank and carburetor do contain water it has be removed completely.
Loose spark plug wire or bad plug
Clogged or wet air filter
Faulty stop switch
Oil guard sensor is tripping (9hp Vanguard equipped units only)
Throttle cable is grounding to engine stop terminal
Carburetor not functioning properly

Seems Low on Power -
Throttle Will Not Return To Idle

Throttle cable not properly adjusted
Throttle linkage not lubricated
Throttle linkage fastener too tight
Broken, weak, or stretched throttle pedal return spring
Broken, weak, or stretched engine throttle return spring
Engine throttle linkage binding

STOP AND START SWITCHES

Start Switch Does Not Work
-- Electric Start Units:

Check battery voltage and connections
Check start switch connectors
Faulty start switch
Faulty solenoid

Stop Switch Does Not Work

Loose ground wire
Bad connection or broken wire
Loose terminal on engine
Faulty toggle switch
Faulty engine ground terminal

THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Headlights Do Not Work

Headlight burnt out
Bad connection or broken wire
Low Battery Voltage
Poor ground

DRIVE SYSTEMS
Centrifugal Clutch Equipped

Kart Moves While Engine Is Idling

Worn, overheated, or abused clutch - NOT OILED
Drive chain too tight
Engine idle is set too high

DRIVE SYSTEMS
Torque Converter Equipped

Kart Moves While Engine Is Idling

Belt installed backwards (30 Series Only - Flat side goes towards engine)
Wrong belt installed, a belt that's too short will cause the machine to creep at idle
Malfunctioning driver clutch on crankshaft
Malfunctioning driven pulley on jackshaft
Incorrect driver pulley spacing
Engine idle set too high
Pulleys not aligned, will also destroy belts

Rapid Belt Wear

Drive belt installed wrong (30 Series Only, Flat side goes towards engine)
Wrong belt installed
Overloading drive system; climbing hills too steep, pulling heavy loads
Riding the brake
Malfunctioning driver pulley
Malfunctioning driven pulley
Binding or dragging brake, bearings or axle
Pulleys not aligned
See the chart at the bottom of this page for more belt drive system trouble shooting info.

Poor, Sluggish Or Jerky Acceleration

Malfunctioning drive system
Throttle cable not properly adjusted
Unlubricated, loose, or worn drive chain
Binding or dragging brake, bearings or axle
Engine not functioning properly

Erratic Engagement

Erratic engagement is most often caused by the driver clutch that is mounted on the engine crankshaft. The flyweights in the clutch are sticking or the movable sheave is binding on the hub. Knowing how they work may help you determine why yours doesn't. As engine rpm increases, the flyweights push against the outer drum and force the movable sheave toward the engine causing the belt to travel at a greater circumference around the driver clutch. This action in turn causes the belt to force open the driven pulley, allowing the belt to travel at a lesser circumference around the driven pulley.

As engine rpm decreases, the spring in the driven pulley closes the pulley forcing the belt to a greater circumference. This action overcomes the force of the flyweights against the movable sheave and causes the driver clutch pulley to open, allowing the belt to travel a lesser circumference around the driver clutch. When the engine is at idle, the driver clutch pulley should not engage the sides of the belt. The belt should be loose in the pulley and resting on the bronze bushing around the hub. The bronze bushing serves to protect the belt from rubbing against the spinning hub at idle and also to support a portion of the movable sheave as the sheave moves toward the engine during engagement. The movable sheave must be able to slide freely on the splined hub without binding. Disassemble the driver clutch and clean away any dirt or lubricant residue using an automotive parts cleaning solvent. Do not use a petroleum based lubricant inside the driver clutch or between the hub and movable sheave. Use a dry, molybdenum based lubricant. The extreme heat and pressure inside the driver clutch chars petroleum based lubricants. Petroleum based lube also collects dirt which causes increased wear. Graphite lube is better than petroleum lube, but it also eventually leaves a residue that builds up on the parts, causing them to bind and require more frequent cleaning.

Low Speed

Throttle cable not properly adjusted
Binding or dragging brake, bearings or axle
Malfunctioning drive system
Improper tire pressure
Engine not functioning properly

DRIVE CHAIN

Chain Falls Off Sprockets

Chain tension too loose
Unlubricated, stretched or worn drive chain
Worn, overheated, or abused clutch
Sprockets not aligned
Bent, worn, or loose sprockets and or sprocket hubs
Loose drive wheel
Bent or loose axle
Bent frame

BRAKE SYSTEMS

Band Brake Equipped - Lining Wears Quickly

Brake rod or cable not properly adjusted
The driver is "riding" the brake pedal too much.
(Remind the driver to push only one foot pedal at a time)

Kart Will Not Stop - Brake Doesn't Work

Brake rod or cable not properly adjusted
Brake band lining/pads worn
No key in brake drum/disk
No key in the wheel hub

Brake Binds Or Won't Release

Brake rod not properly adjusted
Brake linkage not lubricated
Brake linkage fastener too tight
Broken, weak or stretched brake pedal return spring

STEERING

Steering Effort Too High

Linkages not lubricated
Spindle pivot bolt too tight
Improper tire pressure
"Toe-In" not properly adjusted
Binding tie rod end
Bent spindle or tie rod
Bent front axle
Bent steering column

Belt

Comet Torque Converter Belts

Problem

Cause

Solution

Belt is worn thin
in just one portion

Excessive slipping
of Clutch caused by:
Locked track or axle
Idle speed is too high

Rotate by hand to free up
Repair or replace clutch
Reduce the engine R.P.M.

Driver Clutch turns
while engine idles

Idle set too high
Wrong belt length, too short

Reduce engine R.P.M.
Check application specs.

Belt is worn "Cup"
Shaped, Concave on sides

Too much run out on clutch

Repair or replace clutch
Increase center distance

Belt Disintegration

Excessive Belt Speed

Reduce R.P.M. at high speed

Belt "Roll Over" at high speed

Pulley system out of line
Drive belt speed too high

Align system
Reduce the R.P.M.
Repair or replace clutch

Cord breakage on belt edge

Misalignment of system
Belt not properly installed

Align system

Cracking between cogs on belt

Belt is wearing out

Replace the belt

Broken or torn cogs
Compression section torn

Belt not installed right
Belt rubbing something

Check for interference

Belt worn uneven on one side

System out of line
Engine mount is loose

Align system
Tighten engine mount

Belt looks glazed/baked

Extra slippage caused by:
Not enough pressure on belt
Horsepower is too high
Possible oil on pulleys

Check driver springs & weights
Clean belt, pulley faces,
make sure they are dry

Top width worn too much

Excessive slipping
Pulleys are scratched/rough
Angle of the belt is wrong

Check for proper engagement
Replace or repair pulley
Check data for application